January 23-26 - Puerto Varas, Chile

From Valparaiso, we took an overnight bus to Puerto Varas to explore Chile's lake district and the doorway to Patagonia. Immediately, what struck us the most, was the German influence. Located on the shore of Lake Llanquihue, this small town might as well be located in Germany. The architecture, culture, feel, and vibe of it is very German, and quite pleasant. Yes, you'll taste Kuchen's, among many other desserts, but also you'll get the empanadas and local cuisine of Chile. In addition, Volcano Osorno and Petrohue, are a short distance away. We could definitely feel Patagonia approaching.

January 21, 2012 - Emiliana Casablanca, Chile

Eager to see some vineyards in Chile, we headed inland from Valparaiso to Casablanca, and visited Emiliana, known for its organic vineyards. Upon our arrival, we booked a one hour tasting tour, and learned many fascinating facts about this lovely vineyard. For one, Emiliana takes great measures to avoid the use of agrochemicals such as pesticides, fertilizers, herbicides, etc.  Secondly, they adhere strongly to three basic principles of biodynamics developed by Rudulf Steiner, an Austrian-Hungarian philosopher. To anyone who doesn't know his name, we strongly recommend a google search. Lastly, and the quality that impressed us the most, is their strong commitment to their workers. For example, they founded a gardening program which allows for all of their employees to have a piece of land where they can grow their own vegetables. In addition, they supply the means for employees to have their own "micro-companies" such as in the production of olive oil, honey, wool, etc, to serve as an additional source of income during the seasons when there is no work to do in the vineyard. It was incredibly impressive to see, and made us respect them all the more. Not just for the quality of their wine, but for their relentless commitment to social and environmental issues. Of course, after the tour, we ended up purchasing six bottles of wine, which to a backpacker may seem ludicrous, but to us normal. Luckily, good karma followed us, and we were picked up by a group of young Chileans who offered us a ride back to Valparaiso. Thank you Chile, for your wine, your people and your love.

January 17-21, 2012 - Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso is a city of astounding beauty and history. Located on the central coast of Chile, this major seaport was once the main harbor for the Chilean navy, and a required stopover for all ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific ocean during the second half of the 19th century. As a result of its strategic location, Valparaiso drew many European immigrants, who settled and transformed the city into what we see today. Vibrant, multi-colored, hillside homes covered the landscape, as we we headed to the two most famous hills, Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Here, we found an array of hostels, galleries, boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and bars lining the streets. You can easily detect the European influence mixed in with the native Chilean culture that gives this city a unique vibe. It is no wonder artists from all over the world flock to this port, once home to the famous poet, Pablo Neruda. Overall, we spent five enchanting days in what is known as "The Jewel of the Pacific" in a charming Bed and Breakfast called Allegretto. We filled our days with leisure walks exploring every nook and corner of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. We dined at some of the city's best restaurants. We ate the famous "Machas a la Parmesana," and drank their exquisite Pisco Sour and local beer. We indulged, or rather overdosed, on their delicious ice cream, a type of Sundae called Copa Valparaiso. We rode one of the cities oldest "ascensores" (a type of funicular lift built in the 19th century). Until finally, we bid farewell to this beautiful gem, that reminded us much of San Francisco.